Places I have forgotten to mention so far

This week, we have been also visiting:

Kaikoura. We stopped for lunch here en route from Christchurch to Portage. Notable in my enrhumed state for its Sudafed-stocked pharmacy. I'm told there are other good things about Kaikoura, e.g. the ability to go whale-watching with Maori whose tribes have been working the waters in this area for many a century. Unfortunately, we hadn't scheduled in enough time for this, so med-shopping and lunch at the Adelphi had to suffice :(

Blenheim. We backtracked a little on leaving Portage to do some tasting at various Blenheim wineries. We started at Hunter's, where the late Ernie Hunter supposedly put Marlborough wines on the map in the '70s. They were actually a little disappointing, but I did leave with a very aromatic (think parma violets) Gewurztraminer which would, said the lady, go very nicely with a curry. Suffice to say it's still rolling around in the boot of the car. Onwards to Allan Scott, the highlight of the trip - some very tasty wines and fancied themselves much less than Hunter's. I was unexpectedly won over by a Chardonnay from their "finest"-type range; still only a tenner a bottle (GBP) and hugely tasty (biscuits! mmmmn!) Left with a bottle of that, and on to Cloudy Bay - another place with a big name but a surprisingly uninteresting selection. I did get tempted by their NV though so, ahem, another bottle into the boot. Then onto Fromm's, because we had thoroughly enjoyed a bottle of their 2004 Malbec Merlot at dinner a couple of nights' previously. I was starting to feel a bit squiffy by this point (because of the stinky cold, honest) so left P to do the tasting ... more fool me, as he went and bought 6. Lord knows how we shall get them all home (admittedly, 2 have been drunk already). By the time we got to Waipara I had entirely had enough, and skulked in the corner eating cheese souffle while P's da did all the tasting. He came away with a dessert wine. Despite the poor ending on my part, it was a great morning and the wines were really something. Just a shame that production is so low that they are only picked up the smaller, more discerning UK distributors.

Takaka Hill. I know it's Takaka, not Tanaka, but nonetheless it makes me hear Sean Connery schlurring "If you're Takaka, how do you feel about me?" (to which the correct answer, of course, is "I ... ruv you.") We followed the tortuous twists and turns up Takaka Hill after we left Abel Tasman, in search of our second set of elusive, never-t0-be-found caves. The view from Hawkes' Lookout back over towards Motueka was pretty fine, but still, the caves would have been better. Where do they hide them? (We had tried and failed to find the ones near Kaikouri as well. Hmmn).

Murchison. According to Mr Fodor, there is nowhere worth eating in Murchison. Well, our 2006 copy may be out of date, or he may just be too picky. The Rivers Cafe (I think that's what it was called - pretty much opposite the museum) was fab. The museum wasn't too bad, but somewhat haphazard. If the mood ever takes me, I shall get me a sabbatical and an NZ govt grant (they're good on heritage, reckon they'd deliver) and re-do the Murchison Museum. It has a great story to tell; there was an earthquake in 1924 or 1929 or thereabouts which caused landslips to completely change the form of the local landscape (a new lake; a differently-routed river) - and sadly killed a number of people too. They have loads of detail about the event, right down to really fascinating first-person histories (and some of the first people there to tell you, as well), but it's all presented in such a jumble that you have to work quite hard to figure out the story. Nothing flash, but a few models and simplified displays would make it all a lot more compelling to the passing traveller. Anyway - we had an unexpectedly enjoyably hour or so in Murchison, en route to the west coast. We followed it with a trip to the Bullock swing bridge ("NZ's longest!") which actually became a little scary about half way across, and the pioneer cemetery at Lyell (needs some love, but sobering/interesting).

Most surreal moment so far: listening to 9 Lessons and Carols from Wellington Cathedral, whilst cooking a chilli in Abel Tasman and looking out over the most glorious hot summer's evening. Made me feel very homesick, but was nice to singalong and they have an excellent choir.

Think that's everything I'd forgotten to mention so far; as noted, we're now in Dunedin (uploading pics! - here) - so hopefully a bit more internet connectivity will enable us to add a few more blog postings in the next couple of days. In case not, and in case anyone *is* reading this today/tomorrow - Happy Christmas!